Geylang
What are some things that come to mind when you think of Geylang? Some
would mention its incredible culinary scene such as the variety of restaurants
that line the streets, or the troves of durians sold by the roadside. Some
would even mention its red-light district and its association with a mixture
of vices. However, these perceptions do not define Geylang. In reality,
Geylang is a neighbourhood where history, culture, and modernity intersect
in unique ways.
Geylang was found quite early in Singapore’s history. Maps dating back
to 1849 depicted Geylang with a large coconut plantation adjacent to the
mouth of the Kallang River. It is believed to have derived its name from
the Malay word “kilang”, meaning factory. Back then, Geylang was a bustling
area filled with processing plants, coconut plantations and brick kilns,
reflecting the area’s industrial roots. At the turn of the 20th century,
the growth of the lemongrass-related industry gave rise to the name Geylang
Serai (serai means lemongrass in Malay) – one of Singapore’s oldest Malay
settlements. By 1935, Geylang Serai was transitioning from its agricultural
roots to an urban area, driven by an influx of residents. To accommodate
the growing population, key infrastructure was developed, including the
construction of new roads, the introduction of trolleybuses, and the establishment
of markets.
Today, Geylang boasts a wealth of architectural heritage offering a glimpse
into its past. The shophouses that line its streets are a blend of Chinese
baroque and Peranakan styles, showcasing intricate facades with ornate
details. Some of these shophouses have been carefully restored and adapted
to modern uses, while still preserving their historical significance. Geylang
is also home to several religious landmarks, like Sri Sivan Temple, Masjid
Khadijah, and Geylang Evangelical Church. Geylang Serai is famous for its
popular and iconic bazaars during Ramadan. Over the years, many ground-up
initiatives have also sprung up in Geylang. From volunteer barbers who
provide free haircuts to those in need, to groups which organise friendly
volleyball games to strengthen the community spirit, Geylang is much more
than its reputation suggests. The juxtaposition of these within a single
neighbourhood highlights the diversity that Geylang embodies.
Geylang is a neighbourhood that defies simple categorisation. Its rich
history, melting pot of cultures, and vibrance make it a place worth exploring
and appreciating beyond the stereotypes. Whether you’re there for the food,
the heritage, or the architecture, Geylang offers a unique slice of Singaporean
life that is both authentic and unforgettable.
In the years ahead, we can expect to see a redevelopment of Geylang, having
surfaced in Singapore’s urban planning discussions. For instance, there
are ongoing efforts to rejuvenate the Geylang Serai cultural belt with
new public spaces, improved infrastructure, and enhanced programmes to
facilitate community bonding. Despite these changes, we should keep a conscious
effort to retain the area’s unique character and heritage, ensuring that
Geylang’s spirit is not lost in the process of urban renewal.